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Just Did My Brakes.

8.4K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  money_man  
#1 ·
I just did some searching and really didn't find any threads on other people doing their brake job. So, here's my brake job.

So I just got finished doing my first brake job. The reason I did this is because I had a warped rotor. I figured the pads would be pretty worn after 64,000 miles, but they didn't look too bad. I changed them anyway as well as the rotors. So nice to brake without the steering wheel shaking out of my hands. I tried to tackle the job yesterday, but I got the wrong size rotors. Cobalts that have rear disk brakes have larger rotors up front. Mine have rear drum brakes. So I had to run into O'Reilly Auto and exchange them. DOH!!!

Jack and jack stand. I'm hoping this is the right area to jack up and use a jack stand.
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After taking the wheel off.
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Nice place for the caliper. No coat hanger needed.
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Old pads.
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Showing how much pad is left. Again, not bad for 64,000 miles.
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Making sure I have the right size rotors this time!!!
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Cleaning off protective layer.
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Thread lock.
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New pads installed.
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Caliper reinstalled. Have to push the piston back in. I did it by hand since I didn't have a c-clamp. Just place one of the old pads on top of the piston and squeeze really hard. Also, don't forget to pump the brakes after you bolt the caliper back on or you're gonna have a bad time!!
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All done! Other side is the same thing.
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#2 ·
looks good, just a few questions. 1. Why and where did you use thread lock? 2. In the picture of your old pads, it looks like the pad with the wear sensor on it is worn way more than the other one, that being said, that is an indication that your caliper isn't floating on the glides properly, so just wondering if you cleaned up your guide pins and added a little antisieze to them? Other than that, great job! :)
 
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#3 · (Edited)
I always use loctite on all of my suspension/brake parts.

That's the LAST thing you want coming loose in a caravan of cars going 90+mph for an event (ask my buddy Tony how he found out after swapping C5 Z06 calipers on his GTP back in '06...after it ruined the wheel, wheel bearing, and the caliper/rotor/pads :) ) is all of your brake setup.

And also "meh" @ the whole un-even pad wear...I've seen plenty of cars where the piston side gets more wear because of the instant pressure vs. the opposite side.

You would notice if the caliper was floating or hanging up...sluggish performance from the brake staying on, the wheel on the side where the caliper is hanging up will pull side to side on the highway, and you'd also notice a burning brake smell from rubbing for quite a while, not to mention the heat dissipation from them you can physically feel.
 
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#5 ·
I always use loctite on all of my suspension/brake parts.

And also "meh" @ the whole un-even pad wear...I've seen plenty of cars where the piston side gets more wear because of the instant pressure vs. the opposite side.

You would notice if the caliper was floating or hanging up...sluggish performance from the brake staying on, the wheel on the side where the caliper is hanging up will pull side to side on the highway, and you'd also notice a burning brake smell from rubbing for quite a while, not to mention the heat dissipation from them you can physically feel.
A properly torqued bolt should not need treadlock.
Uneven wear is a sign that your guide pins or pad seats need servicing.
Hope nobody follows your advice...
 
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#4 ·
Yeah, mine wears uneven too and the guides were perfectly fine. Just an econobox flaw.
 
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#7 ·
I used the thread lock as a precautionary measure. I'm sure it would have been fine.

As for the caliper pins, I checked to make sure they were moving freely. I wasn't sure what kind of grease to use on them. Some say to use silicone grease, but I couldn't find that stuff anywhere. As for the uneven pad wear, I'm sure it's normal. It just has to do with the piston side getting instant pressure. I've seen the same on other cars too.
 
#8 ·
My dads been a mechanic for 30 years and says he never uses loc tite on brake jobs. Neither have I and I've never had a problem

Theres actually slider grease you can buy at most parts stores that is made specifically for brake jobs. anti seize and things like it just bake with the heat and do a half ass job until one day when they seize and cause you grief
 
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#9 ·
My dads been a mechanic for 30 years and says he never uses loctite on brake jobs. Neither have I and I've never had a problem
Just because you do it one way or the other doesn't mean it is right or wrong...

I'd rather be safe than sorry.
 
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#11 ·
When I posted my thread, I was not questioning him on the loctight because I thought it was wrong (my post never said that), I personally of the 15 years working on cars in both track/racing/performance, and regular daily driving, I've NEVER seen another mechanic use loc-tight. Am I saying that using it is wrong? No, I was just wondering for informational purposes. That's all I was getting at.

Also as far as the glider/slider, I wasn't saying that's what it was exactly, I usually re grease the gliders on every brake job, as more of a preventative or precautionary maintenance step. Better safe than sorry most times. Same as the loc-tight I guess.

Either way wasn't trying to start any debates, just gathering info guys, that's all. :)
 
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#12 ·
Leveecius, no harm done...debates and dialogues is what a forum is for. Lots of stuff is learnt even through arguments. There are almost 13000 members now, I'm sure opinions will be different and not all will agree. Correct info and facts is what is important. I've had to track down mistakes I had made to edit my post so the next guy wouldn't have false info. I once posted "A3" instead of "A10" and it took me 2 hours to track down every single post where the error was.
 
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#13 ·
lol I've been there before too, that's why I like making sure that the info is right the first time around lol, and if it's not, I'll always admit when I'm wrong and have a good head about it. I am only human, so I do tend to make just as many mistakes as the guy next to me and the one next to him. :)
 
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#15 ·
They're the Brake Best brand ceramic pads and rotors from O'Reilly Auto.

You'll probably still get some shaking after you change the rotors and pads. It seems to be all going away now after braking hard a few times to "bed things in."
 
#16 · (Edited)
Just did my brakes.I know there are tons of how to's on here so I'm just going to post a few pictures and comments on how it went this morning. Passenger inside pad was the one that was worn the worst, the rest would have lasted probably 20000 miles, but both rotors were starting to pulse from slight warpage and since my oldest daughter will be leaving for 4 months with the car this winter I decided to do the brakes.

Here goes picture number one the beginning. lol

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Removed hub cap so far so good...

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Removed wheel, still no problem...

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Unbolted caliper from caliper bracket held in place by two 14mm flange head bolts

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Unbolted caliper bracket from knuckle held in place by two 15mm flange head bolts, sorry no pictures....

Then encountered first problem and reason why inside pad was worn more than all others. Water,salt and lubricant do not mix or make a good combination. Here are pictures of the two guide pins....
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There are two different pins so make sure you don't mix them up. Doing them one at a time is best.
Cleaned the pins and the cylinders removed all of dried up grease from inside the booth. Re-lubricated the pins making sure I put enough grease where rubber booth seats on pin to try and delay water from coming in.

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Put everything back together and made sure pins were free.

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Then changed the stainless steel pad guides on the bracket and re-installed with new rotors.Installed screamer at the top of inner brake pad.

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Install the brake caliper mounting bracket bolts tighten the bolts to 115 N·m (85 lb ft).Lubricated the tips of the pads, the part that slides in the guides, and installed. Greased the backing plate with anti-squeal grease supplied with adaptive one pads. Bolted caliper to bracket. Tighten guide pin bolts to 34 N·m (25 lb ft).
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Did the same on the other side, took it out for a spin and she brakes marvelously.
 
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#18 ·
Did you pull them out to check the condition? Auto part store sell lube especially designed for these pins. Just ask for guide pin lube.
 
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#19 ·
Did all that, my daughter took the car and never even noticed the difference. I must have done a good job or maybe girls don't even notice this stuff. She said she didn't notice and didn't even remember using the brakes. duh!!!
 
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#21 ·
I'm suprised there is no how to on the drum brakes. I will have to make one when I change mine this winter.
 
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#22 ·
the drum brakes in these cars is pretty much self explanitory.
 
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#23 ·
If someone asks how to change brakes on any caliper, they probably need explinations on how to change a drum. At minimum how to take the cover off!
 
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